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Our signature 10 oz. indigo-dyed selvedge fabric woven in Japan on vintage Imamura looms. A faithful reproduction of a pre-1930s quality, this fabric facilitates a traditional drape and ease of movement whilst ageing gracefully. Loaded with nep that provides a grainy pop amongst the deep indigo, this uniquely-textured fabric will fade into a palette of rich blues and chalky whites.
During the early part of the Vietnam War, US Special Forces Advisors and their CIA counterparts would procure specific garments to wear while incountry. These garments were usually selected for purposes of practicality, either for functionality or for their camouflage. Post Korea, new combat fatigues had yet to be developed and issued by the US Military so hunting clothing and bespoke garments were favoured by many. Mitchell pattern camouflage had been issued for helmet covers and half shelters, often the latter were appropriated, taken to a local tailor or while on R and R, and turn into a pair of custom combat pants or jacket. Pants would incorporate specific details and modifications required by the wearer.
Each pair of pants is handmade in Dawson's Brighton, England workshop.
The TSPTR x Dawson Denim Fall Winter 21 capsule channels the tailor shop tradition of Okinawa during the Vietnam War. We’ve assembled a collection of period correct Vietnam War era garments and reinvented them in traditional Japanese fabrics, turning the classic 3 pocket USSF Advisor shirt into a casual Aloha style, repurposing Jungle combat pants into vacation wear and revising the archetypal 60s Ivy League blazer into an unstructured jacket.
Okinawa in Japan was a popular R and R destination during the war where numerous local tailors near the US air bases specialised in making custom garments and 'party suits'. These were usually worn while on R and R and on-base only for special social occasions in lieu of official dress uniforms, which were not commonly used in Southeast Asia. The most significant social occasion was the famous "Sawadee" party. Named for the Thai language greeting appropriate for both "hello" and "good-bye," this party welcomed newly arrived personnel and bid good-bye to those returning home. The party suit tradition, although superficially humorous, served an important role in Air Force organizations by promoting unit integrity and maintaining an esprit de corps under the most difficult combat circumstances, while being highly valued by those who served in Southeast Asia.
A percentage of each sale from this collection will go to www.warchild.org.uk the only specialist charity for children affected by war.