Sold Out £220.00

This option is currently sold out.


Click below to purchase

Our signature 10 oz. indigo-dyed selvedge fabric woven in Japan on vintage Imamura looms. A faithful reproduction of a pre-1930s quality, this fabric facilitates a traditional drape and ease of movement whilst ageing gracefully. Loaded with nep that provides a grainy pop amongst the deep indigo, this uniquely-textured fabric will fade into a palette of rich blues and chalky whites.

Arguably the most coveted US military issue garment of the Vietnam War, the ‘Advisor’ Shirt was part of a two piece uniform set first issued in the early 1960s to member of the US Special Forces and US Advisors that worked with South Vietnamese units. Constructed from cotton in a variety of different weights, they would all feature the distinctive tigerstripe camouflage that became synonymous with the war in South East Asia. While tiger patterns would vary significantly the pattern of the shirt itself remained the same - a boxy cut with large chest pockets, a jacket style button front and a third smaller box pocket on the sleeve commonly referred to as a ‘cigarette’ pocket. The pattern of the shirt would often be utilised as a block for custom made garments either worn in combat or on R and R. These items would be procured either incountry while in Saigon or on R and R in Japan or Thailand. Traditional Japanese fabrics were popular among servicemen, as were Aloha patterns.

Each shirt is handmade in Dawson's Brighton, England workshop. 

The TSPTR x Dawson Denim Fall Winter 21 capsule channels the tailor shop tradition of Okinawa during the Vietnam War. We’ve assembled a collection of period correct Vietnam War era garments and reinvented them in traditional Japanese fabrics, turning the classic 3 pocket USSF Advisor shirt into a casual Aloha style, repurposing Jungle combat pants into vacation wear and revising the archetypal 60s Ivy League blazer into an unstructured jacket.

Okinawa in Japan was a popular R and R destination during the war where numerous local tailors near the US air bases specialised in making custom garments and 'party suits'. These were usually worn while on R and R and on-base only for special social occasions in lieu of official dress uniforms, which were not commonly used in Southeast Asia. The most significant social occasion was the famous "Sawadee" party. Named for the Thai language greeting appropriate for both "hello" and "good-bye," this party welcomed newly arrived personnel and bid good-bye to those returning home. The party suit tradition, although superficially humorous, served an important role in Air Force organizations by promoting unit integrity and maintaining an esprit de corps under the most difficult combat circumstances, while being highly valued by those who served in Southeast Asia.

A percentage of each sale from this collection will go to the only specialist charity for children affected by war.



ADVISOR SHIRT - 10oz Neppy Selvedge ADVISOR SHIRT - 10oz Neppy Selvedge

Sign up to our mailing list